General Maintenance

10 Tips for Hiring a Heating and Cooling Contractor

1. Study up — Find out about license and insurance requirements for contractors in your state. And before you call a contractor, know the model of your current system and its maintenance history. Also make note of any uncomfortable rooms. This will help potential contractors better understand your heating needs.

2. Ask for referrals — Ask friends, neighbors, and co-workers for contractor referrals. You can also contact local trade organizations for names of members in your area.

3. Call references — Ask contractors for customer references and call them. Ask about the contractor’s installation or service performance, and if the job was completed on time and within budget.

4. Find special offers — A heating and cooling system is one of the largest purchases you’ll make as a homeowner. Keep your costs down by checking around for available rebates on energy-efficient ENERGY STAR qualified heating and cooling equipment. Begin your search at www.energystar.gov

5. Look for ENERGY STAR — ENERGY STAR qualified products meet strict energy efficiency guidelines set by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and offer significant long-term energy savings. Contractors should be able to show you calculations of savings for ENERGY STAR heating and cooling equipment.

6. Expect a home evaluation — The contractor should spend significant time inspecting your current system and home to assess your needs. A bigger system isn’t always better; a contractor should size the heating and cooling system based on the size of your house, level of insulation, and windows. A good contractor will inspect your duct system (if applicable) for air leaks and insulation and measure airflow to make sure it meets manufacturers specifications.

7. Get written, itemized estimates — When comparing contractors’ proposals (bids), be sure to compare cost, energy efficiency and warranties. A lowest price may not be the best deal if it’s not the most efficient because your energy costs will be higher.

8. Get it in ink — Sign a written proposal with a contractor before work gets started. It’ll protect you by specifying project costs, model numbers, job schedule and warranty information.

9. Pass it on — Tell friends and family about ENERGY STAR. Almost one-quarter of households knowingly purchased at least one qualified product last year, and 71% of those consumers say they would recommend ENERGY STAR to a friend. Spread the word, and we can all make a big difference.

10. Get the ENERGY STAR Guide — For complete information on keeping your home comfortable year-round, read the ENERGY STAR Guide to Energy Efficient Cooling and Heating (2.6 MB)En espanol— Guía para la Eficiencia de Energía en la Calefacción y el Aire Acondicionado (2.5MB).

Keep Some Money in Your Wallet this Winter

(11/2/06) The average American family spends $1,900 a year on energy bills, much of which goes to heating and cooling our homes. Consumers can save as much as 20 percent annually on total energy costs – and reduce their environmental impact – by following four simple recommendations from the government’s Energy Star program.

These four steps will help you “H.E.A.T” smartly while reducing home energy consumption and environmental impact this winter:

• Home Sealing. Seal air leaks and add insulation – paying special attention to your attic and basement, where the biggest gaps and cracks are often found. This will keep warm air inside where it belongs and help your equipment perform more efficiently.
• Equipment Maintenance. Dirt and neglect are the number one causes of system failure. Get a check-up of your heating system to make sure it’s performing efficiently and safely. Clean or replace your system’s air filter to help lower energy bills and maintain better indoor air quality.
• Ask for Energy Star. Look for the Energy Star label when purchasing products. If just one in 10 households bought Energy Star qualified heating and cooling products, the change would keep 18 billion pounds of greenhouse gas emissions out of our air.
• Thermostat Use. Install a programmable thermostat to save energy during times when you’re home or away. When properly used, a programmable thermostat can save as much as $150 a year in energy costs.

There is also an easy way for businesses and other organizations to save 10 percent or more on their energy bills this winter: turn down the heat. Many businesses operate their heating systems 24 hours a day, even when no one is using the facility. If businesses cut back just one hour of operation out of every 12, their energy savings could equal about eight percent. If every business in the United States saved 10 percent on their energy bills, Americans would save about $10 billion and reduce greenhouse gas emissions equivalent to those from 15 million vehicles.

What to Look for When it Comes to Heating and Cooling your Home.

Heating and cooling systems are some of the most important investments you’ll ever make in your home. Whether you’re buying a new house, renovating an old one or making an emergency purchase because “old faithful” finally conked out, there’s a lot riding on the choices you make: Your comfort and safety are at stake, but so is your wallet.

Americans typically spend about 46 cents of every dollar they pay in utility bills for “space conditioning.” You can lower those costs by selecting the most energy-efficient equipment that meets your needs and fits your budget.

The EnergyGuide label on home heating and cooling equipment is intended to help you do just that. These labels provide a “snapshot” of the more in-depth energy efficiency and usage information that manufacturers are required to provide with their products — generally through a fact sheet or industry association directory.

Why should I care about energy efficiency?

The total cost of an appliance has three components — the purchase price, the cost of repairs and maintenance, and the cost to operate it. The more energy efficient an appliance is, the less it costs to run and the lower your utility bills. Using less energy is good for the environment, too; it can reduce air pollution and help conserve natural resources.

Is there really that much of a difference among the various models on the market?

All products must meet minimum energy efficiency standards set by the Department of Energy. But many products beat the standard, use even less energy and cost less to run.

Is one system more efficient than another?

Most of the differences are on the inside — in the motors, compressors, pumps and valves. So even if two models look the same from the outside, these less-obvious features can mean a big difference in your monthly utility bills.

How can I be sure energy efficiency claims are not just sales hype?

Manufacturers must use standard tests developed by the Department of Energy to prove the efficiency of their products. Many have these tests performed by independent laboratories. The test results are reported on the EnergyGuide labels, and through fact sheets provided by the manufacturers or in industry association directories.

Before You Buy…

1. Conduct an energy audit. This will help you detect energy waste, gauge the efficiency of your current heating and cooling systems, and determine if conditioned air is being distributed properly. Your utility company may offer free or low-cost energy audits or a do-it-yourself kit. You also can hire a specialist to do a more comprehensive — and more expensive — energy audit.

2. Weatherize your home. Check the caulking, weatherstripping and insulation, and make any necessary repairs. This may enable you to install a smaller, less expensive heating or cooling system to get the same results.

3. Compare the performance of different brands and models. Study the product literature. Will the product do the job? How energy efficient is it? What’s its repair history? Will it handle your needs today? Ten years from now? Does it fit your budget?

4. Estimate how much the appliance will cost to operate. The more energy an appliance uses, the more it costs to run. Consult the EnergyGuide labels, the manufacturers’ fact sheets or the industry association directory to compare the energy efficiency of different models. The difference on your monthly utility bill can be significant, especially when considered over the lifetime of the products. You can save money over the long run by choosing a more energy-efficient model, even if it costs more initially.

5. Ask about special energy efficiency offers. Ask your local utility or salesperson if there are cash rebates, low-interest loans or other incentive programs in your area for buying energy-efficient products — and how you can qualify.

How Do You Say “Efficiency”?

Heating and air conditioning systems have a language all their own…

• If you’re referring to furnaces and boilers, it’s”annual fuel utilization efficiency,” or AFUE.
• For room air conditioners, it’s”energy efficiency ratio,” or EER.
• For central air conditioners and heat pump cooling, it’s “seasonal energy efficiency ratio,” or SEER.
• For heat pump heating, it’s “heating seasonal performance factor,” or HSPF.

Tips for Lowering Your Monthly Energy Bill

Being an energy-smart consumer means getting the most from the energy you use.

• Shade your room air conditioner from direct sun. This will reduce its workload. Clean the filters monthly and replace as necessary to save energy and reduce dust and pollen in the air. Lower the setting when you go out to reduce operating costs.
• Vacuum air vents, baseboard heaters and radiators regularly to remove dust that reduces heating efficiency. Move furniture, carpet or curtains that restrict their operation. If your baseboard heaters have movable deflectors or vents, open them in the winter and close them in the summer.
• Schedule annual tune-ups for your heat pump, furnace or boiler. Check to see if your utility company provides this service.
• Hire a professional to seal and insulate leaky ducts, and to ensure that the airflow distribution system serving your heating or cooling equipment is operating at peak efficiency.
• Check your attic, attic stairway, attached garage walls and basement to ensure that you have proper insulation between conditioned and unconditioned spaces.
• Open your foundation vents each spring if your home has a crawl space under it. Close the vents in the winter
• Prune back shrubs that may block airflow to your air conditioner or heat pump.
• Consider installing ceiling fans. The air circulation promotes cooling in the summer and heating efficiency in the winter.

Selecting and Replacing Heating and Cooling Systems

When replacing an existing heating and cooling system, it’s important to first consider the limitations imposed by your current system. Of course, it is possible to install virtually any heating and cooling system in any house, but the cost and aesthetic impacts may be unacceptable for you. When selecting a heating and cooling system for a new house, your options are generally much wider, although your builder or developer may place limitations on your choices.

For both new and existing homes, it’s important to first maximize the energy efficiency of your home. This is the most cost-effective means of keeping your home comfortable, no matter what climate you live in. After doing so, be sure to do what you can to make use of passive solar heating in your home and consider whether ventilation can keep your house cool on warm days, or if you really need artificial cooling. Only after exploring these topics should you decide on the type of system you want and work with a contractor to figure out the optimum size for it. To learn more on these topics, see the following resources:

• Limitations When Replacing Existing Systems
• Selecting Fuel Type and Type of System
• Sizing Your Heating and Cooling System

Even the most energy-efficient heating and cooling system will fail to save you money if it is installed incorrectly or improperly adjusted. To verify the qualifications of your heating and cooling contractor, ask if they have been certified by North American Technician Excellence, Inc. (NATE).

Here are some further tips on choosing contractors:

• Ask neighbors and friends if they have worked with a contractor they would recommend
• Focus on local companies
• Look for licensed, insured contractors
• Ask about previous experience
• Check references
• Inquire with the Better Business Bureau.

Use these methods to select several contractors, then get at least three detailed, written bids. Each bid should include an agreement to provide written calculations (listing the procedures and standards that will be followed), equipment and installation warranties, a payment schedule, and a firm completion date. Avoid making your decision solely on the basis of price. The quality of the installation should be your highest priority, because quality will determine energy cost, comfort, and durability.

As much as half of the energy used in your home goes to heating and cooling. So making smart decisions about your home’s heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) system can have a big effect on your utility bills — and your comfort. Take these steps to increase the efficiency of your heating and cooling system. For more information, see our Guide to Energy Efficient Heating & Cooling  (708KB).

Change your air filter regularly

Check your filter every month, especially during heavy use months (winter and summer). If the filter looks dirty after a month, change it. At a minimum, change the filter every 3 months. A dirty filter will slow down air flow and make the system work harder to keep you warm or cool — wasting energy. A clean filter will also prevent dust and dirt from building up in the system — leading to expensive maintenance and/or early system failure.

Tune up your HVAC equipment yearly

Just as a tune-up for your car can improve your gas mileage, a yearly tune-up of your heating and cooling system can improve efficiency and comfort.

• Maintain your Equipment: A Checklist
• Finding the right contractor: 10 tips

Install a programmable thermostat

A programmable thermostat is ideal for people who are away from home during set periods of time throughout the week. Through proper use of pre-programmed settings, a programmable thermostat can save you about $100 every year in energy costs.

Seal your heating and cooling ducts

Ducts that move air to-and-from a forced air furnace, central air conditioner, or heat pump are often big energy wasters. Sealing and insulating ducts can improve the efficiency of your heating and cooling system by as much as 20 percent — and sometimes much more.

Focus first on sealing ducts that run through the attic, crawlspace, unheated basement, or garage. Use duct sealant (mastic) or metal-backed (foil) tape to seal the seams and connections of ducts. After sealing the ducts in those spaces, wrap the ducts in insulation to keep them from getting hot in the summer or cold in the winter. Next, seal ducts that you can access in the heated or cooled part of the house.

See our Duct Sealing brochure (1.13MB) for more information.

Consider installing ENERGY STAR qualified heating and cooling equipment

If your HVAC equipment is more than 10 years old or not keeping your house comfortable, you should have it looked at by a professional HVAC contractor. If it is not performing efficiently or needs upgrading, consider replacing it with a unit that has earned the ENERGY STAR. Installed correctly, these high-efficiency heating and cooling units can save up to 20 percent on heating and cooling costs. But before you invest in a new HVAC system, make sure that you have addressed the big air leaks in your house and the duct system. Sometimes, these are the real sources of problems rather than your HVAC equipment.

Remember that getting the proper size and a quality installation is essential to getting the most from your new equipment. When replacing HVAC equipment, bigger doesn’t always mean better. If the unit is too large for your home, you will be less comfortable and might actually have higher utility bills. Oversized equipment will operate in short run cycles, not allowing the unit to reach efficient operation and remove humidity from the air — resulting in an uncomfortable home. Your contractor should determine the right size for your HVAC equipment by using ACCA/ANSI Manual J or an equivalent sizing calculation tool that takes into account specific information about your home.

Maintenance Checklist

Maintain your equipment to prevent future problems and unwanted costs. Keep your cooling and heating system at peak performance by having a contractor do annual pre-season check-ups. Contractors get busy once summer and winter come, so it’s best to check the cooling system in the spring and the heating system in the fall. To remember, you might plan the check-ups around the time changes in the spring and fall.

A typical maintenance check-up should include the following.

• Check thermostat settings to ensure the cooling and heating system keeps you comfortable when you are home and saves energy while you are away.

• Tighten all electrical connections and measure voltage and current on motors. Faulty electrical connections can cause unsafe operation of your system and reduce the life of major components.
• Lubricate all moving parts. Parts that lack lubrication cause friction in motors and increases the amount of electricity you use.
• Check and inspect the condensate drain in your central air conditioner, furnace and/or heat pump (when in cooling mode). A plugged drain can cause water damage in the house and affect indoor humidity levels.
• Check controls of the system to ensure proper and safe operation. Check the starting cycle of the equipment to assure the system starts, operates, and shuts off properly.

Cooling Specific

• Clean evaporator and condenser air conditioning coils. Dirty coils reduce the system’s ability to cool your home and cause the system to run longer, increasing energy costs and reducing the life of the equipment.

• Check your central air conditioner’s refrigerant level and adjust if necessary. Too much or too little refrigerant will make your system less efficient increasing energy costs and reducing the life of the equipment.
• Clean and adjust blower components to provide proper system airflow for greater comfort levels. Airflow problems can reduce your system’s efficiency by up to 15 percent.

Heating Specific

• Check all gas (or oil) connections, gas pressure, burner combustion and heat exchanger. Improperly operating gas (or oil) connections are a fire hazard and can contribute to health problems. A dirty burner or cracked heat exchanger causes improper burner operation. Either can cause the equipment to operate less safely and efficiently.

Actions to Do Yourself

• Inspect, clean, or change air filters once a month in your central air conditioner, furnace, and/or heat pump. Your contractor can show you how to do this. A dirty filter can increase energy costs and damage your equipment, leading to early failure.

Sizing Heating and Cooling Systems

Older space conditioning systems (more than 10 years old) are often unreliable and much less efficient than a modern system. When it’s time for a new replacement, choosing one of the correct size (heating and/or cooling output) is critical to getting the best efficiency, comfort, and lowest maintenance and operating costs over the life of the new system. Some national surveys have determined that well over half of all HVAC contractors do not size heating and cooling systems correctly.

The most common sizing mistake is in oversizing. This not only makes the new system more expensive to install, but also forces it to operate inefficiently, break down more often, and cost more to operate. Oversized heating equipment also often creates uncomfortable and large temperature swings in the house. Oversized air conditioners (and heat pumps) do not run long enough to dehumidify the air, which results in the “clammy” feeling and unhealthy mold growth in many air-conditioned houses (see dehumidifying heat pipes as one solution to this problem).

Incorrect Sizing Methods

It is the installer/contractor’s job to perform the correct sizing calculation for the building. However, many installers only check the “nameplate” (the label on the unit that has the Btu per hour output among other things) of the existing system and sell you one just like it, or even worse, one that’s larger. This is a not a correct sizing method and not in your best interests! Other methods include simple “rules of thumb” based on the size of your home or using a chart that accounts for a variety of factors. While these methods might provide a first estimate, they should not be used to size your system.

Why Most Older Systems are Oversized

Before the era of tightly constructed homes, it was not uncommon to install furnaces and air conditioners that had two to four times the necessary capacity. Since many people have added new windows, caulking, weather-stripping, and insulation to their homes, going by the nameplate is likely to result in an oversized system. Making improvements such as these to reduce heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer should allow you to install a smaller systems while still being comfortable, as well as saving large amounts of energy.

Manual J and Manual D: The Correct Way to Size a System

Correct system sizing requires considering many factors other than simply reading the nameplate of the existing unit. Key factors for correctly sizing a heating and cooling system include the following:

• The local climate
• Size, shape, and orientation of the house
• Insulation levels
• Window area, location, and type
• Air infiltration rates
• The number and ages of occupants
• Occupant comfort preferences
• The types and efficiencies of lights and major home appliances (which give off heat).

Homeowners should insist that contractors use a correct sizing calculation before signing a contract. This service is often offered at little or no cost to homeowners by gas and electric utilities, major heating equipment manufacturers, and conscientious heating and air conditioning contractors. Manual J, “Residential Load Calculation,” published by the Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA), is the recommended method for use in the United States. There are also many user-friendly computer software packages or worksheets that can simplify the calculation procedure. You should make sure that the procedure used by the contractor follows Manual J.

If ducts are part of the installation, they should be sized using the ACCA’s Manual D, “Residential Duct Design.” The ACCA also offers a comprehensive guide for choosing home heating and cooling systems, called Manual S, “Residential Equipment Selection.”

A Special Case: Sizing Steam Heating Systems

One exception to the above is in steam heating systems. For these systems, the boiler should be sized to match the radiators. However, there is still room for energy savings. First of all, the original boiler may be oversized for the radiators, so the contractor shouldn’t just order the same capacity boiler, but instead should match the boiler to the radiators. Second, if you’ve increased the energy efficiency of your home, it may have more radiators than it needs.

It may be possible to remove radiators in the core of the house and shift the others around, replacing larger radiators with smaller ones. Since radiators are modular, it is theoretically possible to downsize a radiator by removing sections; in practice, this is usually difficult to do without damaging them. In many parts of the country, used radiators are available cheaply, so you can potentially buy small radiators to replace large radiators; if you do so, be prepared to replace the shutoff valves as well, since they often won’t match. Newly manufactured steam radiators are available as well.

In any case, you should work with a heating and cooling professional when downsizing your system. Your house’s heating needs should be calculated using Manual J, and your radiators should be downsized appropriately. Match the new boiler to the remaining radiators. Note that balancing steam heating systems is more an art than a science; ideally, you will find a heating professional with experience in steam heating systems.

Steps a Good Contractor Should Take to Size Your System

Many factors affect a home’s heating or cooling requirement, or “load.” A good estimator will measure walls, ceilings, floor space, and windows to determine the room volumes, and will assess the R-value of the home’s insulation, windows, and building materials. A close estimate of the building’s air leakage is also necessary. A blower door test is the best way to measure air leakage.

A good estimate will also include an inspection of the size, condition of seals on joints and insulation, and location of the distribution ducts in forced air systems. The placement of supply and return registers should be appropriate for the system type and size.

The orientation of the house also affects heat gain and heat loss through windows. Overhangs can reduce solar gain through windows. Make sure the contractor uses the correct design for the outdoor temperature and humidity in your area. Using a higher summer design temperature results in oversizing air conditioners.

When the contractors are finished, get a copy of their calculations, assumptions, and the computer printout or finished worksheet. This is your only proof that they did the job right. To summarize, when designing your new heating and air conditioning system, the contractor you choose should do the following:

• Use a computer program or written calculation procedure to size the system
• Provide a written contract listing the main points of your installation and includes the results of the heating and cooling load calculation
• Give you a written warranty on equipment and workmanship
• Allow you to hold the final payment until you are satisfied with the new system.

Decibel (dB) Comparisons

Common Sounds

This decibel (dBA) table compares some common sounds and shows how they rank in potential harm to hearing. In many industries, workers are exposed to dangerous noise levels. This is particularly true in the construction, lumber, mining, steel and textile industries.

Since the sensitivity of the ear to sound is not the same for all frequencies, weighting or attenuating filters are included in the sound level meter’s circuits to simulate the ears’ response. A noise level meter gives an instantaneous measurement of the noise present, but cannot measure the duration of the exposure. To measure the amount of noise a person is exposed to over a period of time, a “dosimeter~ or an integrated sound level meter must be used. Sources for above include the American Medical Association and the Canadian Hearing Society of Ontario. Decibel table developed by the National Institute on Deafness and Other Communication Disorders, National Institutes of Health, Bethesda, Maryland 20892. January 1990.